Sunday, April 12, 2026

Taroko Gorgeous


Puli to Hualien 

Wow, wow, just fecking WOW!! That was some ride today! The sun was shining and the mountains were calling. I headed out of town towards Hehuanshan and the highest road in Taiwan.


I'm getting good at selfies!


At first, there was a fair bit of traffic, especially a shit-ton of motorbikes (the official collective noun for bikers). Lots of sports bikes out enjoying the fabulous conditions. All screaming past me at light speed. I was happy just pootling along enjoying the increasingly spectacular views.
The traffic gradually reduced as the altitude increased.


The road, single track in places, was an absolute peach; a joy to ride. Tight and twisty in places and smooth sweeping curves in others. The variety certainly kept me interested. Had to be alert to other vehicles coming at you in the middle of the road on blind corners though. The usual story! The Taiwanese drivers are generally not bad though; in mainland China, this would have been a death road!
 
Wuling Pass

The Wuling high pass near Hehuanshan was pleasantly cool and high enough at 3275 metres (about 2 and a half times the height of Ben Nevis) to leave you a little breathless. How the cyclists coped, I have no idea. A bit crowded on the pass, so a quick photo and the descent began. The traffic thinned out even more and the scenery just continued to inspire. A blanket of cloud hung below the mountain peaks in the distance. Words and photos can really do justice to how jaw dropping it all was.









Then to the junction where I turned right towards Taroko Gorge. I first tried to come here back in 1999; but it was just after a massive earthquake which had made this region inaccessible. It was easy to see why. Towering cliffs and precipitous drops had the road hugging the canyon wall. It felt like a loud sneeze could bring the whole lot down on top of you.



Taroko Gorge did not disappoint. Worth the 26 year wait to finally get here. I have been extremely lucky with the weather so far and conditions today were perfect. A riding day to live long in the memory.



The road was hacked through the cliffs in places, but the surface was generally excellent. Many JCBs and heavy equipment were strategically placed along the route. Presumably to keep the road clear in case of landslides. I think they are kept pretty busy.



Not today I hope





I stopped for a break by a footbridge across to a Buddhist temple/shrine. Beautiful, but I admired it from afar; more taken by the JCB in the river moving the gravel to shore up the bank.



As had happened a couple of days ago: the road ahead was closed for an hour. Many cars and bikes were waiting to be released. When finally we were, it was wacky races down the mountain. This section had the more famous views of the cliffs overhanging the road, but I wasn't sure if stopping was allowed here as traffic had been held at either end. Spectacular though.......

Some of the bikes awaiting starters orders.



Then it was the run back to Hualien, where I stayed 6 days ago. If all goes to plan, I get to ride Taroko Gorge again tomorrow in the other direction before heading north back towards Taipei.


Soundtrack: "Jig of Life" - Kate Bush

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